Poach

Matt McMillan, Big Bowl's executive chef, threw together these items for his lunch one day. We ran it as a special the next week. It's simple and delicious.

All of the components for this sophisticated dessert can be made the day before, then assembled quickly at the last minute. Sabayon (also called zabaglione) is a custard sauce that is whisked over hot water until it is light and foamy.

(Saumon Confit à l'Huile d'Olive, Petite Salade de Roquettes, Vinaigre de Balsamique) The idea to confit salmon is not original to me but one gleaned from kitchen gossip where recipes and experiments from chefs all over the world are discussed. I learned that many chefs were slowly cooking fish in duck fat but I thought that since salmon is so fatty to begin with, it would be better served if it was slowly cooked in something other than animal fat. Copper River salmon is my first choice for this dish but if it isn't available look for Alaska salmon. Both of them are very fatty and the fat really does make a difference as it ensures a very smooth texture in the finished dish.

Pears are eaten widely in this part of the country, and Campari-based aperitivi begin many meals. Here the herb-based drink shows up after supper, adding its festive color and distinctive flavor to an easy-to-make pear dessert topped with a sauce incorporating Italy's famous mascarpone cheese. The pears are even better when accompanied by glasses of the Italian dessert wine Malvasia delle Lipari.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

With its sweet taste and firm flesh, mahimahi lends itself well to poaching. Halibut, swordfish and salmon would also be good prepared this way. Serve glasses of chilled Sémillon or Chardonnay to go with the main course.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Forget gefilte fish and try this instead: a version of a French classic called carpe à la juive. (It calls for salmon trout instead of carp.) The fish (opposite) is chilled overnight, so begin the recipe a day ahead. Pour a Riesling.

Oeufs en Meurette Sauce meurette is one of the grand classics of French country cooking, a dark concentrated essence of red wine, stock, and vegetables. You would expect it to be paired with the equally powerful flavors of meat or poultry, but no — meurette is unique in accompanying fish, or poached eggs, as here. For extra flavor, I like to poach the eggs in the wine, which is then used for the sauce; they emerge an odd purple hue, but this is later concealed by the glossy brown sauce. For poaching, it's well worth looking for farm-fresh eggs as they hold their shape better than store-bought eggs. Oeufs en meurette is a favorite restaurant dish, not least because it can be prepared ahead and assembled to order. However, most regrettably, it is not a dish to make in a hurry. All the elements can be prepared in advance, but the full glory of oeufs en meurette is ruined by trying to cut corners. Wine for Cooking For six months in the year, we live in northern Burgundy, where the local pinot noirs are inexpensive and appropriately light for this dish. Equally good for meurette would be a pinot from the northern end of Oregon's Willamette Valley. Avoid the "blockbuster" type of heavy pinots that come from the hotter climes of California and Australia. Wine to Drink To do justice to the richly flavored sauce, let's move up to something grander. A premier cru red from one of the villages in Burgundy's Côte de Beaune would do nicely, as would one of the more refined pinots from California's Carneros district.

Let the bread sit at room temperature for several hours, or overnight, until dry.

For a light alternative to traditional Thanksgiving pies, tequila-poached pears (above) provide a southwestern twist. Popular in Mexico and Central and South America, prickly pear jelly is paired with raspberries for the sauce. Serve with the Lemon Bizcochitos and dessert wine, such as Muscat.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Rita Seger of Peru, Maine, writes: "My husband, a friend, and I hiked a spectacular trail along the rocky cliffs of the northern Maine coast. After roughing it for a couple of days, we enjoyed a night at the Weston House Bed & Breakfast in Eastport. The next morning, one of the owners served a delicious version of eggs Benedict and mentioned that the sauce was easier to make than a typical hollandaise. Could you request the recipe?" In this quick variation on eggs Benedict, mayonnaise flavored with mustard and orange juice replaces the traditional egg yolk and melted butter sauce.

This all-in-one main course can be made several hours ahead.