Sema Wilkes

Coconut, lemon rind, and raisins are a bright surprise. "A lot of people buy my cookbook just to get this recipe," says Mrs. Wilkes.

How do you spot a Yankee at Mrs. Wilkes'? He motions toward the turnip greens and says, "Please pass the spinach."

This is a favorite family tradition around the holidays, especially for Mrs. Wilkes' great-grandson Ryon. Mrs. Wilkes makes the steak crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It is best served with white rice.

One diner's instructions on how to find Mrs. Wilkes': "Walk along West Jones Street until you smell fried chicken."