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Rena Bulkin

Rena Bulkin began her career in Paris, writing about European hotels and restaurants for The New York Times International Edition. Returning to her native Manhattan after several years abroad, she worked first at The New Yorker and then at New York magazine. She has written fifteen Arthur Frommer travel guides, as well as numerous magazine articles on travel, food, and other subjects. A close friend of the late Abe Lebewohl's, she has a long history with the Second Avenue Deli, where she has worked on many public-relations campaigns.

Recipes

Chicken Soup

This simple chicken noodle soup recipe from New York’s storied 2nd Avenue Deli makes an extra rich version of Jewish penicillin full of perfectly tender meat.
Recipes

Potato Latkes

Potato latkes are really just potato kugel in pancake form.
Recipes

Matzo Meal Latkes

Without the grated onion, matzo meal latkes are a little on the bland side. However, you can always take a different, more Sephardic, approach: omit the onion; sprinkle the cooked latkes with a mixture of confectioners' sugar, cinnamon, and finely chopped nuts; and serve them with honey.
Recipes

Holishkes (Stuffed Cabbage)

Editor's note: This recipe is reprinted from The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook, by Sharon Lebewohl and Rena Bulkin.

On Succoth, a joyous seven-day autumn harvest festival (a kind of Jewish Thanksgiving), stuffed foods—most notably holishkes, but also kreplach, stuffed peppers, and strudels—are served to symbolize abundance. Stuffed cabbage has been a staple of Jewish cooking since the fourteenth century, when it was introduced in Russia by Tartars. There are an infinity of recipes for it, both Eastern European and Middle Eastern; ours, in a sweet-and-sour sauce, is of Polish derivation.

Note: When you're confronted with a bin of cabbages, you'll notice that some are quite light, whereas others have the heft of bowling balls. Choose the lightest ones for stuffing; their leaves peel off much more easily.
Recipes

Kreplach

Called Jewish wontons or raviolis, kreplach are pasta dumplings, usually triangular in shape, filled with minced meat, onion-spiced potatoes, or cheese. Kreplach carries a lot of lofty symbolism; its triangular shape represents Judaism's three patriarchs: Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. Equally lofty: the Jewish momma who can roll her kreplach dough to optimum thinness (so that, according to Sam Levenson, "a tempting bit of their buried treasure should show through"). If the wrappers are not paper-thin, your kreplach will taste like "craplach." However, though we've included wrappers in this recipe, there's really no reason to knock yourself out making them. Just purchase wonton wrappers in a Chinese food store or supermarket, and making kreplach becomes a cinch. There's even a kosher brand called Nasoya, available in many supermarkets; look for it near the tofu.
Recipes

Schmaltz and Gribenes

This recipe uses the fat and skin from about 4 chickens. You can save it up in your freezer over the course of time. For even more flavorful schmaltz, add a few cloves of garlic.